Hydrolized Marine Collagen
Many products claim to contain this miracle protein, naturally present in the body. Is it as effective as we think?
WHAT IS COLLAGEN?
“It is the key protein in our skin,” explains Ingrid Pernet, director of scientific communication at Resultime. If we take into account its dry weight, the skin is made up of 95% collagen. Like a load-bearing wall, it provides its architecture, its density and its elasticity. » But our capital decreases from the age of 20-25. Under the effect of UV rays, pollution, stress, cigarettes, free radicals, its quantity and quality are reduced. The fibers crack and become disorganized. Which causes wrinkles, sagging and dehydration. But not only that… “This molecule is the most abundant in connective tissue. If the skin lacks it, its surface becomes irregular, it then reflects less light and loses its radiance,” explains José Ginestar, Sisley scientific director. This creates shadow areas which alter its brightness. Another consequence of poor quality collagen: a complexion that loses uniformity. “Collagen fibers have a pearly color. Under the effect of glycation (generated by an excess of sugar), they take on a brownish color and fuse together,” indicates Lionel de Benetti, cosmetologist. And this can have visible consequences on the surface of the skin. “Glycated collagen causes the production of lipofuscin, a brown pigment, which creates beige-colored spots on the surface of the skin. It has nothing to do with sun exposure. This is evidence that the oxidized cellular debris has not been evacuated,” explains Cyrille Telinge, founder of Novexpert.
SHOULD YOU TAKE FOOD SUPPLEMENTS?
Food can be a source of collagen. Marine collagen comes from fish scales and bones. Their molecular weight must be as low as possible in order to optimize assimilation. “A study published in July 2020 in the “Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology” demonstrated the effectiveness of daily intake of low molecular weight hydrolyzed collagen on wrinkles and skin elasticity in women aged 45 to 60,” underlines Cyrille Telinge. To be effective, you must consume at least 10 grams per day for four to eight weeks. In any case, it is under these conditions that the study was carried out. However, to ingest this quantity of collagen, you would have to eat daily… 140 g of marrow bones or 1 liter of bone broth. But, be careful, if you are vegan , it's impossible to supplement with collagen. The solution ? Turn to collagen precursors (like amino acids).